Orris Pallida Resinoid — Iris pallida | Payan Bertrand Italy | The Ultimate Fixative

Part of our Professional Perfumers Range — curated for the discerning natural perfumer seeking exceptional depth and rarity.

Orris Pallida Resinoid — The Highest Fixative Power in Natural Perfumery

Of all the orris materials available to the natural perfumer — butter, absolute, concrete, resinoid — the resinoid of Iris pallida is the least known and arguably the most remarkable. While orris butter commands the headlines and the highest prices, the resinoid quietly surpasses it in one critical respect: fixative power. With the highest fixative capacity of all orris products and an extraordinary longevity exceeding 400 hours on a smelling strip, this is the orris material that anchors compositions with the most authority and the greatest tenacity — a hidden gem that far too few perfumers ever discover.

Produced by Payan Bertrand — one of France's most distinguished natural ingredient houses, with roots stretching back to 1854 and a position of unrivalled authority in the supply of orris materials to the fine fragrance industry — this resinoid is extracted from the rhizomes of Iris pallida cultivated in Italy, the world's benchmark origin for genuine orris. The rhizomes must be aged for three years after harvest before extraction to allow the irones — the characteristic aromatic compounds responsible for orris's violet-powdery character — to develop their full complexity. The result is a dark brown liquid of extraordinary depth and concentration, supplied at 50% in natural triethyl citrate (TEC) for ease of handling — the pure resinoid being so viscous as to border on solid at room temperature.

This is not to be confused with orris butter, which is a creamy white waxy solid of quite different character. The resinoid is darker, earthier, and more complex — possessing cocoa, mineral, and rooty facets alongside the characteristic violet-powdery heart that give it a sophistication and depth that the butter, for all its beauty, rarely achieves.

Scent Profile

The opening is immediately distinctive and complex — a cool, slightly mineral powderiness with the characteristic violet facets of genuine Iris pallida, threaded through with an unusual earthy depth and subtle cocoa nuances that distinguish this resinoid immediately from any other orris material. The carrot-rooty quality that is orris's botanical signature is present and correctly calibrated — not harsh or raw, but refined and integrated into a powdery, slightly sweet floral heart of considerable beauty. As it develops, the mineral and earthy facets deepen while the violet character softens into something more luminous and radiant. The drydown is extraordinarily tenacious — this material persists on a smelling strip for over 400 hours, anchoring and enriching surrounding materials with quiet, authoritative grace.

Used at the recommended average concentration of 0.25% in a compound it functions as the most powerful natural fixative available — felt rather than consciously heard, but transformative in its effect on longevity and depth.

Perfumery Applications

Orris Pallida Resinoid is primarily a fixative of the highest order — its exceptional tenacity and anchoring power making it invaluable across virtually every fragrance family where longevity and depth are required. In floral compositions it adds a powdery-violet dimension of great elegance; in chypres it is a classical and indispensable base note component; in woody orientals its earthy-mineral character adds genuine botanical complexity; in iris and violet soliflores it is the structural backbone around which the entire composition is built.

Its unusual cocoa facets make it surprisingly effective in gourmand and dark oriental compositions, where it adds depth and sophistication without competing with sweeter base materials. The combination with patchouli is particularly celebrated — the resinoid's earthy powderiness finding natural affinity with patchouli's dark, woody character in an accord of unusual depth and beauty. IFRA 51: completely unrestricted in all application categories — use with confidence at any concentration.

Blending Suggestions

Pairs beautifully with violet absolute, rose absolute, jasmine, orris butter, labdanum, oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, cedarwood, sandalwood, frankincense, benzoin, bergamot, clary sage, and soft musks. The combination with violet absolute and rose for a powdery floral of great classical elegance is particularly recommended. Equally rewarding alongside patchouli and vetiver for a dark, earthy oriental base of unusual complexity.

Technical Details

• Botanical Name: Iris pallida Lam.
• Common Names: Orris / Dalmatian Iris / Sweet Iris
• Botanical Family: Iridaceae
• INCI Name: Iris Pallida Rhizome Resinoid
• CAS Number: 8002-73-1
• Manufacturer: Payan Bertrand, France
• Origin: Italy
• Plant Part: Rhizomes — aged three years before extraction
• Extraction Method: Solvent extraction (resinoid)
• Dilution: 50% in natural triethyl citrate (TEC) for ease of handling
• Maximum Irone Content: 1.7%
• Classification: Base note — outstanding fixative
• Appearance: Dark brown liquid
• Odour Family: Powdery / Violet / Earthy / Cocoa / Mineral
• Longevity: Over 400 hours on a smelling strip
• Average Use: 0.25% in a perfume compound — extremely concentrated
• IFRA 51: Unrestricted — no limitation in any application category
• Natural: Yes — 100% pure natural resinoid in natural TEC carrier
• Note: Not to be confused with orris butter — a quite different material with a creamy white waxy appearance and distinct character

Packaging

1ml sample supplied in a 5ml clear flint glass bottle. 5ml, 10ml and 30ml supplied in amber glass bottles — all with inbuilt droppers and tamper evident caps.

Safety Information

For external use only. Avoid contact with eyes and sensitive areas. Not suitable for use on babies, children, pets or broken skin. Avoid use during pregnancy or whilst nursing. Always dilute properly and perform a patch test before first use.

Sample Policy

We recommend purchasing a 1ml sample first before committing to larger quantities. Please note that no refunds can be offered on opened items.

Photo images are for illustrative purposes only.